Hydrangea season in Tokyo: A Travel Diary
When Travelling to Tokyo in June you’ll be there during hydrangea season, and you’re in for a truly enchanting experience. The city streets and gardens come alive with the splendid beauty of hydrangea flowers (ajisai 紫陽花) in every imaginable colour. As you stroll around, you’ll discover that even shrines and temples are adorned with these captivating blooms, immersing you in both the rich traditions and artistic expressions of Japan. This season is truly for the creatives, with the moody ambience that comes from wandering in the summer rain amongst the fleeting flowers. Japan is a very popular tourist destination and as we had experienced cherry blossom season many, many times, we wanted something a little different for this trip that would still satisfy my need to escape Australia’s “bitter winter”.
After living in Tokyo for 7 years, on my recent trip back I wanted to make the most of playing tourist. The recommended areas for a casual tourist visiting hydrangea during Tokyo’s rainy season are the charming areas near Sumida River (隅田川), like Mukojima (向島), or the picturesque surroundings of Mount Takao (高尾山), where you’ll find sprawling vistas of breathtaking hydrangea landscapes. Walking through a lane with hydrangeas lining your path is an experience that soothes the soul and allows you to truly unwind. If that wasn’t enough, there are hydrangea festivals (紫陽花祭り) happening throughout June. These offer a delightful mix of cultural events and captivating art exhibitions. Tokyo during hydrangea season seamlessly combines the allure of nature’s beauty with the vibrant essence of city life, creating a truly unforgettable experience. Yes, you might get a little rained on. Is it worth the experience? 100%.
Is it really that rainy during the rainy season?
Well, the amount of rain actually varies depending on the region and the year. Generally, there are many rainy days in Japan in June. It doesn’t necessarily mean that it rains every single day. In the case of Tokyo, the rainy season typically starts from June and extends into July, but it doesn’t mean it rains continuously. By the end of July it gets pretty hot as it is summer in Japan. There are days with rain as well as days with clear skies. Therefore, it’s advisable to have an umbrella handy when visiting during that time because Tokyo weather is very changeable.
However, even on rainy days, Tokyo offers a plethora of charming tourist spots, cafes, and restaurants where you can still have a wonderful time. Even if you are travelling to Tokyo in June and you get rainy weather there are various attractions to enjoy despite the weather. My favourite thing to do is visit a garden terrace or nearby cafe and people watch as the rain falls. Très romantique.
What you will find here:
In this post you will discover some of the locations I have visited and recommend for anyone wanting to go on a hydrangea-hunting spree in Tokyo. It’s a short travel diary of some of my highlights while on my recent travels to Tokyo this June. Did you know that almost every season in Japan is flower-centric? You can find out what festivals of flowers might be going on during the month you visit on my post Japan Flower Guide: Everything You Need To See Beautiful Blooms.
Shinjuku Chuo Park
Shinjuku Chuo Park (新宿中央公園) is a fantastic spot to enjoy the beauty of hydrangeas (紫陽花). During the hydrangea season, the park becomes adorned with colourful blooms, creating a picturesque scene. This was our local park when we used to live in Shinjuku. We decided to stay two nights on the western side of Shinjuku on our trip to Tokyo. It was a really rainy day. We had a huge list of things we would like to see in our old neighbourhood. We also had a huge list of things we wanted to buy in Shinjuku and plans to meet up with our friends in Shibuya that afternoon. So we walked over to Shinjuku Chuo Park early that morning as the rain continued to fall around us, soaking our sneakers through until our socks were bathed in water.
To our surprise, Shinjuku Chuo Park has had a massive revamp during the pandemic. It is now better than ever. There is a Starbucks in the park (yes, you heard correctly!) as well as a climbing wall and yoga studio. The right side of the park has also been replanted and there are new gardens carved out. You can take a leisurely stroll along the park’s paths. As you get further to the South-West you’ll find yourself surrounded by vibrant hydrangea bushes in various shades of blue, pink, and purple.
The tranquil atmosphere and the soothing sound of rustling leaves make it a perfect place to relax and appreciate nature’s artistry. Don’t forget to bring your camera to capture the enchanting beauty of the hydrangeas! If you are travelling to Tokyo in June then Shinjuku Chuo Park’s hydrangeas promises a delightful experience for nature lovers and photography enthusiasts alike. I highly recommend that you take a seat in the Starbucks to enjoy a coffee and hydrangea-watch (but don’t eat as many sugar donuts as I did).
Kyu-Yasuda Garden (Former Yasuda Garden)
Formerly owned by the prominent Yasuda family, Former Yasuda Garden (旧安田庭園) is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of the city. It’s also known as Kyu-Yasuda Garden. We actually hadn’t heard of this place before. It was located right near our hotel on the last night of our trip. We were staying in Ryogoku. On our walk by the Sumida River (another great spot for hydrangea viewing) we noticed a massive park on our map! It offers a serene and picturesque escape from the bustling streets of Tokyo. On arriving at the park we noticed it was a beautiful, calm, traditional garden. The garden showcases traditional Japanese landscaping techniques. It features various elements such as manicured gardens, ponds, a bridge, and winding pathways.
During the hydrangea season, the Former Yasuda Garden transforms into a vibrant display of colorful hydrangea blooms (紫陽花). The gentle slopes and scenic corners of the garden have hydrangea bushes in hues of blue, pink, and purple. It creates a breathtaking sight. It was raining when we visited but that didn’t stop us from enjoying it. Infact, it helped create a really bittersweet atmosphere.
If you’re on this side of town, visiting the Former Yasuda Garden during hydrangea season is a perfect opportunity to take a leisurely stroll, appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship of the garden, and capture memorable photos that have that “wow, I’m in Japan” feel. Please note that the garden may have specific visiting hours or restrictions. Make sure to check the latest information here when planning your visit.
Shiba Park (Shiba Koen)
Shiba Park (芝公園), commonly known as Shiba Koen, is a popular park located in Minato ward, Tokyo. You will know it from a very famous resident – Tokyo Tower. It is a historic and expansive park that offers a tranquil retreat amidst the urban landscape. We were very lucky to live next door to this gorgeous park for the last few years that we lived in Tokyo. So, when we were travelling to Tokyo in June this was the first area we stayed in. We stayed for four nights in the area. That way we could catch up with friends, visit our favourite spots, and my partner could work from the Tokyo office. While Shiba Park is not specifically known for hydrangeas, the upper level of the park has many seasonal flowers. This includes hydrangea this time of year.
In addition to the natural beauty, Shiba Park is home to historical landmarks such as Zojoji Temple and Atago Shrine. This adds a cultural and architectural interest to the park. We wandered around this area as well as it is a must see when in the area. The weather was perfect for these couple of days. We only got rain on our last day in the area.
VERDICT
Was It Worth It?
It really depends on if you have been to Japan before. I definitely think there are better times to go, such as cherry blossom season and autumn. However, the first time I went to Tokyo was in the middle of a cold and dreary February. I still fell completely in love with the city. Infact, I’ve never met anyone that didn’t like travelling to Tokyo or Japan. In that regard, I think it’s a safe bet that any time you can visit Japan will be a good time. I think that travelling to Tokyo in June is one of the best times to go. The weather is not too unbearably humid as it gets in summer and you’ll also be able to experience hydrangeas. Which is why I would place June as the third best season to experience in Tokyo behind cherry blossom season and autumn.
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